Srinagar Travel Guide: Dal Lake, Houseboats and the Old City

Srinagar is where every Kashmir trip begins, and the Dal Lake is its heart: a shikara glides you past floating gardens and the Char Chinar island, houseboats line the shore, and the Mughal gardens of Shalimar, Nishat and Chashma Shahi climb the hillsides above. The old city, with its wooden Jamia Masjid and the shrine of Hazratbal, and the hilltop Shankaracharya Temple, fill out a gentle two days.

• Dal Lake — a shikara ride past floating gardens and the Char Chinar island
• The Mughal gardens of Shalimar, Nishat and Chashma Shahi, climbing the hillsides above the lake
• The old city's wooden Jamia Masjid and the shrine of Hazratbal
• The hilltop Shankaracharya Temple

Two nights is the usual allowance, one at the start of a Kashmir trip and one at the end after the valleys — enough for a gentle two days that takes in the lake, the gardens and the old city without rushing.

April to October is the green season, with tulips peaking in early April, meadows at their best in June and July, and autumn colour arriving by mid-October. December to February brings snow, when Srinagar runs on wood stoves. During the Amarnath Yatra pilgrimage, usually July and August, convoy movement and security checks can slow the main highways through the city, so build in buffer time if you travel then.

Fly into Srinagar (SXR), which has direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai and other major cities; most trips route through Delhi. Once there, hire a car and driver for the whole trip, since self-drive is not practical and shared cabs are unreliable for a timed itinerary. Use a Jio or Airtel postpaid SIM, as many prepaid SIMs do not work in Jammu and Kashmir.

In Srinagar the choice is a heritage houseboat on Dal or Nigeen Lake, all carved cedar and lake views, or a hotel on shore for convenience; most trips do a night of each.