Sonmarg Travel Guide: Thajiwas Glacier, Treks and the Road to Ladakh

Sonmarg is a mountain meadow, and the places to visit in Sonmarg are chosen mostly by how much time and energy you have. The Ganderbal district, which administers it, lists the Thajiwas glacier, the Sindh river, the treks to the Himalayan lakes and the valley of Baltal. The Srinagar–Leh highway runs through the valley and climbs from here to the Zojila pass. Our Kashmir travel guide places Sonmarg among the other valleys.

Thajiwas glacier

The Ganderbal district puts the Thajiwas glacier at 9,186 feet, about 2,800 metres, and describes a silvery glacier set against green meadows. In summer a half-day hike leads to several waterfalls around it, and the district says ponies can be hired for the trip up to the glacier. It is the main sight in Sonmarg and the reason most visitors come. The district's Sonamarg page says private vehicles are not allowed and visitors hire a taxi. The page is undated, so ask your hotel or driver how the day works before you arrive, and agree the pony fare before you set off.

The Sindh river, Nilagrad and rafting

The Sindh meanders through the valley, and the district says it abounds with trout and mahseer. Fishing needs a permit from the Jammu and Kashmir government, so do not cast a line without one. The Jammu and Kashmir tourism department holds river-rafting tournaments at Sonmarg every year, and the district gives August and September as the rafting months. Nilagrad, about 91 km from Srinagar by the district's figure, is where a red-coloured mountain stream joins the river. The district calls it a picnic spot, and its water is believed locally to have healing powers.

Treks to the Himalayan lakes

Sonmarg is the starting point for treks to the lakes of Vishansar, Krishansar, Gangabal and Gadsar, which the district describes as stocked with snow trout and brown trout, and to glacier-fed Satsar, ringed by alpine flowers. These are multi-day treks over high ground, not walks from the road. The district notes that most trekking tours provide equipment and camping facilities, so book through an operator rather than setting off alone.

Baltal and the Amarnath Yatra

Baltal lies 15 km east of Sonmarg at the foot of the Zojila. The district calls it the base camp for the Amarnath Yatra, a day's journey from the Amarnath cave. The yatra's dates change from year to year, and our Kashmir best-time guide explains how it affects travel in the valley.

Zero Point and the Zojila road

Beyond Sonmarg the highway climbs to the Zojila pass, which the Border Roads Organisation gives as about 11,500 feet, around 3,500 metres. "Zero Point" is the name the Organisation's snow-clearing reports use for the point near the top where its Sonmarg-side and Drass-side teams meet, and travellers use the same name for the high ground on this climb. Whether a taxi can take you up depends on snow, traffic on the highway and the day's arrangements, so treat Zero Point as a possible extra, not a promise. In winter the road over the Zojila is closed.

The India Meteorological Department (IMD) publishes no long-term averages for Sonmarg that we could find. Its Srinagar centre issues a district-wise rainfall forecast that includes Ganderbal, the district Sonmarg lies in, and a daily report for Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg and other stations, but not Sonmarg itself. The Ganderbal district describes the climate as bracing, with frequent but light rain apart from spells of two or three days at a time in July and August.

Before the tunnel, the district gave late April as the time Sonmarg opened to road transport, when visitors found snow spread over the meadows. The Sonamarg tunnel opened on 13 January 2025, and the Press Information Bureau (PIB) says it was built to keep Sonmarg connected through the winter and to make it a year-round destination with winter tourism. Winter conditions on the last stretch to the meadows and the glacier can still limit what you can do, so confirm with your hotel before you travel.

Choose by purpose. Summer suits the glacier walk, the waterfalls and the pony ride, which the district calls a summer attraction. August and September suit rafting. Snow lovers can now consider winter, since the tunnel is meant to keep the road open as far as Sonmarg. Beyond Sonmarg, the road to Ladakh follows its own calendar, set out in our best time to visit Ladakh.

• From Srinagar by road: 87 km, under three hours by car or bus on the Srinagar–Leh highway, by the Ganderbal district's figure. The 6.4 km Sonamarg tunnel on the approach bypasses the landslide and avalanche stretch. See our Srinagar travel guide for the city itself.
• By air: Srinagar airport is the nearest, about 100 km away; the district's pages give 88 to 102 km depending on the sight.
• On the spot: taxis are the way to move around Sonmarg, as above.

Continuing to Ladakh

The highway runs on over the Zojila, through Drass and Kargil, to Leh, 434 km from Srinagar by the Leh district's figure. The two Ladakh districts differ on the dates: Leh says the road is open from May to November or December, while Kargil says snow is likely to block the main pass from November to May. The PIB describes the Zojila road as motorable for only about six months, and the Zojila tunnel is still under construction. However you reach Leh, rest 48 hours on arrival; the health advisory says road travel "does not help at all". Read our Ladakh travel guide and Leh travel guide.