Nainital Travel Guide: Naini Lake, Snow View and the Kumaon Lakes

Uttarakhand Tourism places Nainital in the Kumaon Himalayas at around 2,000 m, surrounded by seven hills it names Ayarpata, Deopata, Handi-Bandi, Naina, Alma, Lariya-Kanta and Sher-ka-Danda. It was the summer capital of the United Provinces in the British era, and its villas, churches and schools date from then. Most sights lie within a few kilometres of the lake; the lakes and temples further out are day trips.

Naini Lake

The district calls the lake the nucleus of Nainital's beauty: by day the seven hills and their cottages are reflected in it, and at night the lights of the shore. Rowing and paddle boats are available at both ends of the lake, with rates posted at prepaid booths on the shore. Mallital lies at the northern end and Tallital at the southern. According to mythology, the lake formed when the eyes of the goddess Sati fell here while Shiva carried her body, a story tied to the Naina Devi temple at its edge.

Naina Devi Temple

Uttarakhand Tourism describes the Naina Devi temple as one of the most revered temples in India, with the goddess Naina Devi as its presiding deity and her two eyes representing divinity. The state's pages place it on the Naina hill near Naini Lake and, elsewhere, at the edge of the lake, and say that many myths and legends are attached to it and that it draws devotees throughout the year. The same pages call Naina Peak, known locally as Cheena Peak, the highest point in Nainital; the climb to it is described below.

Mall Road

Uttarakhand Tourism says the British built the Mall Road to connect Mallital and Tallital. Its official name is Govind Ballabh Pant Marg, and it runs along the lake lined with restaurants, shops, banks, hotels and travel agents. The state's list of must-buys is handmade candles and pinewood artefacts. The district publishes traffic rules for it that restrict vehicles at set hours in May, June and October, light vehicles included in the evening. On the far side of the lake, the district says, Thandi Road is quieter, has the Pashan Devi temple and does not allow vehicles.

Snow View and the ropeway

Snow View is the most easily reached hilltop, 2.5 km from the town at about 2,270 m, and the district describes views of the snow-covered Himalayan peaks, with a temple, tea and snack stalls on the hill. A ropeway runs there from Mallital, and a one-way ride takes about three minutes. Uttarakhand Tourism says a large pair of binoculars is installed at the top for a closer look at the peaks. The district and the state's tourism pages give different timings and fares for the ropeway, so confirm both at the station on the day.

Tiffin Top (Dorothy's Seat)

Tiffin Top is a peak 4 km from the town at 2,292 m, on the Ayarpatta hill, with a view of the Himalayas and the surrounding country. Dorothy's Seat, beside it, is a memorial to an English painter, Dorothy Kellet, built by her husband after her death, and the district says Tiffin Top and Lands End can be covered at a stretch because the two spots are side by side. Uttarakhand Tourism notes that many tourists like to trek up.

Naina Peak (China Peak)

At 2,611 m, Naina Peak, also called China Peak, is the highest point of the town, 6 km away. The district says its view runs from Bandar Punch in the west to the Api and Nari peaks of Nepal in the east, with a bird's-eye view of the lake on the other side, and that ponies can be hired for the climb from Snow View or from Barapathhar. Uttarakhand Tourism describes the Naini Peak to Pangot walk as a two-day trek that starts at Mallital and passes Snow View.

Nainital Zoo

The Pt. Govind Ballabh Pant High Altitude Zoo stands at about 2,100 m on the Sher-ka-Danda hill. The district lists monkeys, Himalayan black bear, leopard, wolf, hill fox, ghoral, barking deer and sambar among the animals, and says the zoo is closed on Mondays, national holidays, Holi and Diwali. A zoo shuttle runs from the Nainital bus station. Uttarakhand Tourism describes it as one of the town's best-known family destinations.

St John in the Wilderness Church

Built in 1846, the church is one of the oldest buildings in Nainital, in the Neo-Gothic style and surrounded by deodar and pine. Uttarakhand Tourism records that the hunter and naturalist Jim Corbett was a regular worshipper. The state's tourism pages also list a Himalayan Museum, established under Kumaun University's Department of History in 1987 to conserve the historical and cultural identity of Uttarakhand, which is closed on Sundays and public holidays.

Bhimtal

Bhimtal is about 22 km from Nainital at 1,370 m. The district says its lake is larger than Naini Lake and that boats go to an island in the middle which has an aquarium, 91 m from the shore. A 17th-century temple complex, the Bhimeshwar temple, stands along the 40-foot dam. One road from Bhimtal leads on to Naukuchiatal and another runs 21 km to Kathgodam.

Sattal and Naukuchiatal

Sattal, about 23 km from Nainital at 1,370 m, is a cluster of lakes in oak forest; the district names Nal Damayanti, Panna or Garuda, and Ram, Laxman and Sita among them. Naukuchiatal, 26 km away at 1,220 m, is a deep lake with nine corners, 983 m long and 693 m wide according to the district, where rowing, paddling, yachting, angling and bird watching are all possible. Sattal is 12 km from Bhowali, and Naukuchiatal is 4 km on from Bhimtal.

Kainchi Dham

Kainchi Dham lies on the Nainital to Almora road, 17 km from Nainital and 9 km from Bhowali. The district calls it a modern pilgrim centre known for the ashram of Neem Karoli Maharaj, and Uttarakhand Tourism adds that the Hanuman temple and ashram were founded by him in 1962. It also says a cave near the temple is said to be where Neem Karoli Baba used to meditate and pray.

Pangot and Kilbury

Kilbury is a hamlet 12 km from Nainital, and Pangot is 15 km, both listed by Uttarakhand Tourism for forest walks, Himalayan views and bird watching. Pangot lies on the Naini Peak trek, and the state says it is blanketed in snow in winter. Kilbury is described as a quiet hamlet for a serene holiday, and Pangot as a haven for bird watchers with pleasant summers.

• By air: Pantnagar is the nearest airport, 70 km away by the district's count, with regular flights to Delhi. From Delhi's international airport, Uttarakhand Tourism adds, the remaining journey is about 300 km by road.
• By train: Kathgodam, about 35 km away according to the district, is the last stop of the broad-gauge line, and the Ranikhet Express runs between Delhi and Kathgodam. Taxis and buses wait at Kathgodam and Haldwani, 40 km out. Our guide to booking Indian trains explains how visitors from abroad book.
• By road: Nainital is on National Highway 87, with regular buses from Delhi, Agra, Dehradun, Haridwar, Lucknow, Kanpur and Bareilly and luxury coaches from Delhi. Uttarakhand Tourism gives the bus from Delhi's Kashmiri Gate as about seven hours. The district gives Almora 64 km, Ranikhet 62 km and Ramnagar, the gateway to Corbett, 65 km.