Bundi Travel Guide: Forts, Stepwells and the Chitrashala

Bundi was ruled by the Hada Chauhans. Rajasthan Tourism says that many historians call it the capital of the Hadoti kingdom, and that Kota became a separate state in 1624. Incredible India calls it the city of stepwells and credits it with the Bundi school of miniature painting. Rajasthan Tourism describes it as a town far from the crowds, ringed by orchards, the Aravalli range and rivers. The state's other cities are covered in our Rajasthan travel guide.

Taragarh Fort

Rajasthan Tourism gives 1354 as the year Taragarh was built, and Incredible India says only that it dates from the 14th century. It stands on a steep hill and is also called the Star Fort. Incredible India describes steep slopes, narrow paths and hidden staircases, and notes views of the city and the Aravalli range, especially at sunset. Rajasthan Tourism says the fort is a bit ramshackle and overgrown, and calls its grounds a good place for a leisurely stroll. Incredible India lists its hours as 9 am to 5.30 pm.

Garh Palace

Rajasthan Tourism counts the Garh Palace, also called the Bundi Palace, among the largest palaces in India, and says it is a collection of palaces built by different rulers over three centuries. Incredible India says that building began in the 17th century under Rao Raja Ratan Singh. The Hathi Pol, the more popular of its two main gates, is flanked by two elephants shown trumpeting. Among the buildings are the Chhatra Mahal, the Phool Mahal and the Badal Mahal. The two sources give different hours, 8 am to 5 pm and 9 am to 6 pm, so confirm them on the day.

Chitrashala

The Chitrashala is a painted gallery inside the palace. Incredible India says it was built during the rule of Maharao Umed Singh in the 18th century as his private audience chamber, and that its murals show Krishna and Radha, mythological stories, court scenes, flowers and animals. The artists used colours made from stones, minerals and vegetables. Rajasthan Tourism notes that as the innermost chamber, its paintings have been spared the worst of sunlight and moisture.

Badal Mahal

The Badal Mahal, the Palace of Clouds, is part of the Garh Palace and sits high up with views over the fortifications. Rajasthan Tourism describes its walls as covered in paintings that show an early Chinese influence, and says the palace was built in two phases.

Raniji ki Baori

Rani Nathavati Ji, the younger queen of Rao Raja Anirudh Singh, built this stepwell in 1699, according to Rajasthan Tourism. Incredible India gives its depth as 46 metres and notes the carved pillars, the high arched gate and the stone elephants at the entrance. Rajasthan Tourism points out that the elephants carved on the pillars have their trunks turned inwards, as though they had drunk from the well. Incredible India lists the stepwell as open from 9 am to 5 pm.

Dabhai Kund and Nagar Sagar Kund

Dabhai Kund, also called Jail Kund, is shaped like an inverted pyramid and is the largest of its kind in Bundi, according to Rajasthan Tourism, which singles out the carvings on the steps leading to the water. Nagar Sagar Kund, a pair of stepwells outside the Chauhan Gate, was built to provide water in times of famine.

Sukh Mahal and the Government Museum

Rao Raja Vishnu Singh built the two-storey Sukh Mahal in the last quarter of the 18th century on the embankment of Jait Sagar Lake, under the supervision of his Diwan, the architect Sukhram. It is popularly believed that Rudyard Kipling wrote part of Kim in Bundi, and Rajasthan Tourism says he stayed in this palace. Today its compound houses the Government Museum, opened to the public on 16 June 2016, which shows sculptures of the Hadoti region, Kota and Bundi miniatures and a gallery of arms.

Nawal Sagar and Jait Sagar

Nawal Sagar is an artificial lake at the centre of town, visible from Taragarh Fort, with a half-submerged temple to Varun Dev in its middle and reflections of the palaces in the water. Incredible India says that the temple can be reached only by boat. Jait Sagar lies close to the fort, ringed by hills, and Rajasthan Tourism says lotus flowers bloom on it in winter and the monsoon.

The cenotaphs and Shikar Burj

The 84 Pillared Cenotaph was commissioned by Rao Anirudh in honour of Deva, his wet nurse, and is carved with deer, elephants and apsaras; Incredible India dates it to 1683. Kshar Bagh, near the Chhatra Vilas Garden on the Jait Sagar road, holds the cenotaphs of the Bundi royal family. Shikar Burj, an old royal hunting cottage near Sukh Mahal, is now a picnic spot among the trees.

Out of town: Bhimlat, Ramgarh and the Chambal

Bhimlat waterfall, 35 km away, has a 140-foot fall and an old Shiva temple. Ramgarh Vishdhari, 45 km out on the Bundi to Nainwa road, covers 252 square kilometres, was established in 1982 and forms a buffer for Ranthambore, according to Rajasthan Tourism, which gives September to May as the time to go; Incredible India lists it as a tiger reserve. Kanak Sagar, near Dugari, 48 km from the town, draws migratory birds, and Rajasthan Tourism also recommends a river safari on the Chambal. Our Ranthambore travel guide covers the tiger country next door.