South Goa Travel Guide: Beaches, Forts, Mansions and Planning

South Goa's coast is longer and emptier than the north's: wide sands from Majorda and Colva down past Varca, Cavelossim and Mobor, then the coves of Palolem, Patnem and Agonda, and the turtle beach at Galgibaga in the far south. Inland are Margao, Chandor's mansions, Rachol, Cabo de Rama and Cotigao. Every trip we run here is on our South Goa tours and experiences page.

Colva

Colva is the main beach of the south: 20 km of white sand fringed with palms, 39 km from Panaji, with resorts, cottages, guesthouses and eateries along the busy road between the church and the sea (GTDC). The Church of Our Lady of Mercy in the village is known for its Menino Jesus statue. GTDC says silver carpets of mackerel dry on the sand, with fishing trawlers lined up offshore, and Incredible India lists boat trips from Colva to look for dolphins.

Benaulim and Goa Chitra

Less than 2 km south of Colva, Benaulim is calmer. GTDC calls it a fishing beach still little discovered by domestic visitors, although local crowds arrive on evenings and weekends, and says the best rosewood furniture is made in the village. On the hill beyond it, the Church of St John the Baptist marks São João with a thanksgiving at the arrival of the monsoon. The Goa Chitra museum in the village holds about 4,000 artefacts, among them tools of tillage and harvest and carts and carriages.

Betalbatim and Majorda

North of Colva, Betalbatim begins a ten-kilometre run of white sand through Majorda, Utorda, Arossim and Velsao that GTDC calls not very crowded. Majorda, about 5 km north of Colva, has several hotels, and GTDC says it is where Goans were first trained in baking European bread, and that Majordans are still Goa's best bakers.

Varca, Cavelossim and Mobor

South of Benaulim, these three beaches are much cleaner and quieter than most of the better-known ones, according to GTDC. Shacks serve Goan dishes and seafood, the resorts are some of the state's most exclusive, and boats go up the River Sal to watch dolphins. Margao is 18 km from Cavelossim by bus or auto, and cycles and scooters can be hired locally.

Margao

Margao, or Madgaon, is Goa's second-largest city and a business and travel hub, and the Konkan Railway's terminus in the state. The Holy Spirit Church on the church square was started by the Jesuits in the 16th century and finished in its present form in 1675, and a chapel of Our Lady of Piety stands on the hill above. The bazaar sells spices, red chillies and Goan pork sausages, and Indo-Portuguese mansions line Abade Faria Road.

Chandor and Braganza House

About 15 km east of Margao, the village of Chandor has some of Goa's largest and most elaborate Indo-Portuguese mansions. The 17th-century Braganza House is split into East and West wings for two branches of one family, with a small chapel holding a relic of St Francis Xavier and a library of leather-bound books. Incredible India lists early-morning hot-air balloon flights from the Assolda football ground in Chandor, subject to favourable weather.

Rachol Seminary

A few kilometres from Margao, on the bank of the Zuari, the Rachol Seminary was built between 1574 and 1610 and is still a centre of philosophy and theology. Little survives of the older Rachol Fort around it beyond an archway over the road and a dry moat, so GTDC suggests seeing the two together.

The Naval Aviation Museum and Bogmalo

Near Bogmalo on the Vasco–Bogmalo road, about 6 km from Vasco da Gama, the Naval Aviation Museum opened in 1998 and shows thirteen aircraft in an open-air gallery, with indoor galleries styled on the aircraft carrier INS Viraat and a jet cockpit simulator. GTDC lists it open Tuesday to Sunday and closed on national holidays. Bogmalo beach, 4 km from Dabolim airport, sits apart from both beach circuits.

Palolem

Palolem is a cosy beach of white sand facing a blue bay between two headlands, with little wooded islands off the northern one. Incredible India counts it among Goa's safest places to swim, with kayaks and paddleboards to use, and GTDC says fishermen here will take you out to spot dolphins, best early in the morning. Daily boat rides of about an hour reach Butterfly and Hanuman islands, where you can get off for a swim at Hanuman Island. Canacona railway station is 3 km away.

Patnem and Colomb

Patnem, near Palolem, is one of the quietest and most secluded beaches of the south, known for peace and seafood. GTDC says the sea is usually safe to swim in but that you should follow the lifeguards' instructions. The rocky cove of Colomb, which GTDC places south of Palolem, is another quiet spot.

Agonda

Agonda is a 3 km cove of white sand fringed with palms and casuarinas: long and lonely, with very few facilities, so carry what you need. GTDC warns that it is not safe to swim out too far here. It is also one of Goa's three Olive Ridley turtle nesting beaches, and the Department of Tourism asks visitors to keep away from nesting areas.

Galgibaga, or Turtle Beach

On the Galgibag river in the deep south, Galgibaga takes its nickname from the northern part of the beach, which is protected as turtle nesting ground. GTDC says it has no beach shacks and that the seas are quite rough and not always safe to swim in.

Cabo de Rama

The laterite fort of Cabo de Rama stands over the Arabian Sea, about 16 km north of Agonda beach. GTDC suggests it as a place to watch the sunset, and warns against going in the monsoon, when there is no shelter. St Anthony's church inside the walls is still in use, and a narrow, steep path leads down to the beach below.

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary

Cotigao lies in Canacona taluka on the border with Karnataka, and GTDC calls it a pleasant day trip from Palolem. A deck 25 m up a tree overlooks a waterhole where animals gather at dawn and dusk, and the 86 sq km sanctuary shelters flying squirrel and Malabar trogon. GTDC says it is accessible in all seasons, with much to be said for the monsoon greenery, and lists it open from 7 am to 5.30 pm every day.